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Old 09-23-2009, 08:02 PM   #1
T-bone71
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Default 383 Torque Monster motor

After the last trip out w/ the "mini monster" and seeing how much smoke was coming from the tail pipe. I decided to build another motor to replace the 358 built motor that was in there. The 358 motor was built to race @ 4500 - 7200 rpm and had some hard races on it. When i built the truck, and decided to use the motor, i knew that at some point i would have to rebuild/replace it as it was not built for low rpm use. The thin and lite weight parts in the motor wear quicker than heavier beefier parts.

I came back after the last ride and did a quick cylinder leak down and compression test on the motor. I found more blow-by than i have ever had and creating crank case pressure and causing oil leaks. After some quick research, i decided to build another motor. Hmmmm what to build, how about a stroker motor? Yeah i like the idea more cubic inch, more power, and more torque. I already had a 350 motor under the bench from the original 73 K-5, after a quick break down i discovered that it was a virgin 4-bolt main. All original, except for a few gaskets that had been replaced somewhere along the way. It looked like it has had grease left on it from the late 70"s, i took a scraper to get to the casting #'s on the block. I got a 383 kit ordered from a local machine shop who could beat an really good internet price that was suggested to me (Thanks anyway Tim).

The way the motor sits now, is fresh from the machine shop
Block
Bored .030 over and fine honed for ring seat
Cleaned ( a couple of times)
New freeze plugs
New cam Bearings
All specs checked

The parts that i have so far
New Scat crank 3.750 stroke
New Scat 5.70 rods
New hypeurtectic Speed-Pro pistons (2 eyebrow flat tops)
Full gasket set
Melling hi-volume oil pump
Cloyes true double roller timing chain (3 adjustments)
New ARP rod bolts
New ARP main studs
New 400 external balancer
New 400 external flywheel balance plate (so i could use my 350 flywheel)

Parts to come
Total Seal Gapless piston rings
Comp Cams cam shaft
ARP oil pump stud kit
Custom burned ecm chip
Hi-flow fuel pump
Worked up/modified throttle body (for bigger cubes)

Parts to be re-used
Oil pan (baffeled and trap doors)
Cylinder heads (world products sr torqurer 2.02/1.60 valves)
GM performance parts aluminum dual plane intake
Comp Cams hardened push-rods
Comp Cams roller rockers
Edelbrock victor series water pump
Aluminum flywheel
heavy-duty clutch (it may be replaced also, i'm not sure)

I don't belive in cutting corners or rushing when i don't have to. I don't think that the motor will be done before Autumn Thump, we are nearing the end of race season (my extra job) truck money will be running out soon. I hope to have the piston rings, and oil pump stud kit in a week or so (next pay day), and the cam in a couple of weeks. That way i can start assembling the short block rotating assy. I still have to notch the block for rod clearance and double check all of the clearances, re-clean everything and then start to put it togther. My goal is 290-300 hp and 380-400 ft/lbs of torque and still be Tbi injected. I've done my math and i belive that i'll be in the 10.2-1 compression range, so i can still use pump fuel. It will still need to be hi-test, but i can still get it @ the local gas station @ $2.50 a gallon instead of the race fuel from the race track @ $7.00 a gallon. I'll take pics and do a write-up on it as i go if anyone is interested.
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Old 09-24-2009, 12:47 AM   #2
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bad fuggin ass... I like your setup, but why TBI? you could make more power with the right carb/intake package.
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Old 09-24-2009, 07:51 AM   #3
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I ran a carb for a couple of years, and hated it. The altitude difference between where i live and where i wheel most is pretty great and i could get it running really good @ the house but up there it would be super rich. The reason for tbi is pretty simple- I wheel pretty hard, ask anyone who has wheeled w/ me. With tbi there are no float bowls to spill over and flood out, no adjusting to worry about, and it runs at almost any angle as long as there is oil pressure. I've had my rig almost standing on it's rear bumper to where i was looking at tree tops from the drivers seat trying to come out of a wash out, and i let it run as long as i had oil pressure. I love my tbi, the only thing better would be tuned port injection but i don't see that in my budget. Tbi is simple, 4 sensors, 1 in-line fuel pump, 1 throttle body, 1 ecm, and fires off every time i hit the key and doesn't matter where i am. Tbi is not for everybody, and yes i may be able to make more power w/ a carb but you cant beat the reliability and simplicity.
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Old 09-24-2009, 11:40 AM   #4
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I think that TBI is one of those things that if you have it, then dont get rid of it, for a carb, but looking around, its a pricey package if your coming from a carb. Good luck with the build, need some youtub vids of it running when finished.
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:38 PM   #5
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I think that TBI is one of those things that if you have it, then dont get rid of it, for a carb, but looking around, its a pricey package if your coming from a carb. Good luck with the build, need some youtub vids of it running when finished.
I've got about the same money in my tbi as what i had in my carb. But i also had access to a donor truck for parts that i may have needed.

I'll probably start on it tonite and start working on the block and getting it prepped and ready to be put together.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:39 PM   #6
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Well i worked on it tonite and got the block notched for connecting rod clearance. It was time consuming but will be worth it after assymbly starts.

I started by cleaning the wd40 off the block and cleaning all of the parts that would be needed for this check. I laid all of the cleaned main bearings in the block and in the cleaned main caps. I carefully laid the crank in the block and installed the main caps and torqued them down in place. Then i cleaned a connecting rod/piston combo and installed a bearing in it. I then put it in the block and torqued it on the crank. I carefully turned it to see where it would hit the block. I then removed the piston/rod assy and the crank and the bearings ( i marked the bearings which journal they came out of), and notched the block w/ a strait air grinder and burr bit. Once all 8 cylinders were done, i cleaned the block of the grindings. I re-laid all of theall of the bearings back in the block, and laid the crank back in the block. I also installed the piston/rod combo back in each cylinder and turned the crank to check clearance. Once all 8 cylinders were done, i removed the piston/rod combo and removed the crank and bearings. I then polished the notched areas w/ a scotch brite twist lock pad and angle air grinder to relieve any possible stress risers and prevent any cracks in the block.

I also am going to install some lifter valley debris screens in the front and rear oil drain back holes. They are simply to catch any debris in the unfortunate event of valve train damage. I don't like lifter valley vent tubes, as the restrict oil drain back to the cam and flat tappet lifters. I want all of the oil i can get to the cam to prevent any un-due wear on the cam or lifters.
Anyway here are the pics from tonite.

The freshly machined block (the bottom)


The top


The piston/rod combo




The crank (nicely micro-polished) You can see the holes drilled in it for balancing


The block ready for the crank


A rod/piston installed and being checked for block clearance


The piston from the top


The block notched and polished


The rear lifter valley debris screen


The front lifter valley screens


Thats all i got done tonite, more to come
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Old 09-25-2009, 12:41 AM   #7
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Looking good man...Wish this was my motor, haha
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:41 AM   #8
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Looking good Tony!I cant wait to hear it run,wish it was mine!!!!!!
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:15 AM   #9
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hay tony i'v been havein a lot of truble with comps cams !!! one in my truck broke and two diferent cars the cams went bad in less then 500 mi. i started runin doug herbert solid rollers i havent had no more truble!! im supriced ya dont run gear drive.that engine should run good! i like my 383 in my camaro..
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Old 09-25-2009, 08:02 PM   #10
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I've had really good success from Comp Cams, never had a failure from them. I did have a failure from a Speedway motors cam. I kept having to adjust the valves on 2 cylinders, and the motor was starting to lay down. Come to find out i lost 4 cam lobes and were round instead of egg shaped like a cam lobe should be. Fortunately i caight it before i lost the whole motor, only a cam and a set of lifters, and clean everything up real good to get out the metal shavings. I'm not a real big fan of gear drives, for what i'm using the motor for a good quality chain and gears should work really well. It's not like i'm going to run a ton of valve spring pressure or a lot of rpm and really over work the chain and gears. It really boils down to cost at this point.
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:23 AM   #11
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yea i do no what ya meen$$$ it cost me a $1000 to put a roller in my truck. its more drag race setup it was 800 for the car its more streetable. but that was cam lifters 225lb springs dizzygear pumpshaft. it was well werth it!! no wear and the HP.gain is awesome !!! over flat tapit cams. i run a chain on my 383 but the timeing is to importent on my nos engine so i run gears sounds kool to!!
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:52 AM   #12
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We did a 383 in my ex-bosses 31 5 window coupe hi-boy, it had a gear drive and you could hear him coming down the rd long be for you could saw him. Part was the gear drive the other was the rt foot. His had a dual quad tunnel ram, hogged out double humps (2.10/1.625 valves), 11.3-1 compression, unmuffled roadster type headers, painted to look like Millners coupe from American Garffitti. Way too much motor for the car, he could mash it @ 70mph and it would go sideways and take off. Wicked fast
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:05 PM   #13
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Well i got the crank laid in the bolck tonite and finally installed. But before that happened the block got a good hot soapy bath w/ dish soap and hot water. The cyilinders, the cam journals, lifter valley, oil filter mounting and every nook and crany that i could get a wrag or a brush into. A good rinse and i was ready to dry. It was dried w lint free wrags and compressed air, and the lifter valley and outside soaked w/wd40. The cylinder walls were coated w/ atf to prevent rusting, and the mains were dried out.

The bearings were installed in the mains where they were marked, and the crank was laid in place. One by one the mains were laid in place and clearanced from the middle to the ends 1 at a time. I has .002 on the mains and .003 on the outer mains. I'm not overly happy w/ this, i would like to have seen 2 and half - 3 thousands across the board, but it is in specs and it's not a race motor. On a race motor i would take it back to the machine shop and get .003 on every one.

Once all of the measuring was done, the crank was removed for the final time and cleaned as well as the bearings cleaned. Both w/ laquer thinner to remove any final debris, also be sure to install the rear main seal at this point also. An engine assymbly grease was applied to the upper bearings and the crank was put in place. The grease was also applied to the lower bearings and an ARP moly lube re-applied to the stud threads. The mains were installed and torqued from the middle out, criss/crossing front to rear. They were torqued to 80 ft/lbs per ARP instructions. Once i got to the rear main a small dab of Ultra Black sealant was applied to the mating surface of the rear main seal half on the cap side. This is to help seal up any voids that may be in the seal mating area. These rear main seals are a pain in the butt to repair if they leak, so i take every pre-caution that i can to make sure they are sealed up. If all goes well i'll have the piston rings late this week, and maybe a cam if i get lucky.
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:38 AM   #14
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yea i wouldnt like a 1000s diference between them ether! but fer what yer doin it should be fine!!
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:43 AM   #15
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good lookin crank by the way!! did ya clearence the block yer self ? who balence's yer cranks?
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Old 09-28-2009, 12:46 PM   #16
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good lookin crank by the way!! did ya clearence the block yer self ? who balence's yer cranks?

Yeah i clearanced the block, and Performance Engine Builders in Denver did the balance work on the whole rotating assy. I think the crank is a great looking piece also, i've never used Scat before so we'll see how it does.
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:20 PM   #17
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the block turned out good .. there's not many shops balance anymore especialy ones you can trust!!!
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Old 09-29-2009, 03:30 PM   #18
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That'a better than Christmas in July!!!

Man that looks kool!
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:31 PM   #19
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Well i got some more parts today, so tonite i got busy again. My Total Seal gapless piston rings, Comp Cams camshaft, cam button, and Arp oil pan stud kit. The stud kit was supposed to be an oil pump stud kit, not an oil pan kit. Oh well i'll use it,it's not a big deal and i'll get another one or should i say i'll try again. No big deal, it will actually help make in the long run with the baffled kick-out oil pan that i use. Anyway I cleaned the cylinders again, and crank journals again, I installed a piston in a cylinder w/no rings for measuring the clearance. One piston was installed for each journal and measured. They were then removed and installed the rings and add assy lube to the bearings and oil to the cylinder walls for final install.

For those that have never used gapless piston rings, they are similar to conventional rings but very different. The bottom oil control ring is the same as any other ring set, the second ring is where it gets different. The second ring has a groove machined in it for a smaller ring (similar to a small oil control upper or lower ring) that fits in the machined groove. You simply install the main second ring and then turn the piston 180 degrees and install the thin second ring in the groove so that the openings are 180 degrees apart-(on opposite sides of the piston) above the piston pins. Then install the top ring according to instructions like a regular top ring, w/ the ring opening on top of the piston pin and on the oppostie side of the second main ring opening. Basically the compression rings are lined up on top of the piston pin and the oil ring end gaps are on the thrust face of the piston, so that the ring gaps are 180 degrees from each other. Simply right, yeah it really is easier than it sounds. It just takes some time and pay attention to which ring goes where and it will go quickly. Here are some pics tonite.

The parts


The rings


The cam


The rings laid out


Piston rings installed (kinda tough to see)


Pistons being installed




Pistons finally installed and torqued ready to go.


Up next will be the cam install, timing cover install, indexing the timing marks on the cover and balancer, and finding true TDC. I also got an important lesson from the Summit Racing tech support and Comp Cams tech support on oil and cam break-in additives.
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Old 10-10-2009, 10:08 PM   #20
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i thought ya was goin with lunaty or somthing like that. insted of comp junk cams!!
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:27 AM   #21
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i thought ya was goin with lunaty or somthing like that. insted of comp junk cams!!

No i was going to use Comp Cams anyway. I've always had really good success w/ them. Not only that the guy that is burning the chip for the f.i. said to use this pn# that is works really well w/ the chip and motor combo. It is actually the same pn that is in the 358 motor also.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:05 AM   #22
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Up next will be the cam install, timing cover install, indexing the timing marks on the cover and balancer, and finding true TDC. I also got an important lesson from the Summit Racing tech support and Comp Cams tech support on oil and cam break-in additives.[/QUOTE]



You need to add zinc to the break in oil?
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:55 PM   #23
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Up next will be the cam install, timing cover install, indexing the timing marks on the cover and balancer, and finding true TDC. I also got an important lesson from the Summit Racing tech support and Comp Cams tech support on oil and cam break-in additives.


You need to add zinc to the break in oil?[/QUOTE]


Yes you do, if there is any cam issues w/ a cam of any manufacturer Summit racing will not warranty a cam w/out any kind of a zinc additive or zinc based oil. Lucas zinc/moly additive part number 10063 should cover that. Rotella oil used to have it, it was a diesel offroad oil but the epa took it out as of Jan 1st. Kendal oil no-longer has it either. Zinc and phosphates are anti-wear additives that have been taken out of oils for emission purposes.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:27 AM   #24
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You need to add zinc to the break in oil?

Yes you do, if there is any cam issues w/ a cam of any manufacturer Summit racing will not warranty a cam w/out any kind of a zinc additive or zinc based oil. Lucas zinc/moly additive part number 10063 should cover that. Rotella oil used to have it, it was a diesel offroad oil but the epa took it out as of Jan 1st. Kendal oil no-longer has it either. Zinc and phosphates are anti-wear additives that have been taken out of oils for emission purposes.[/QUOTE]
yes very true! i did all that. i was havein problems before then. in a 5 year span 3cams the comp lifters at only 5000 rpm blew up brock the cam in 2 peice's trashed an engine! they gave me a new cam an lifter set i was still out an engine. so i built a new one the one i have now. sorta! after 300 mi. i started havein truble keepen valves ajusted! cam was bad !they tolled me i needed to put these little springs on break it in. take it all apart put my springs back on then put it back togther an run it! i told them they were high and have a nice day!!!!!!!!i went to solid roller 2 yrs ago ain't had a problem sence..
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Old 10-12-2009, 04:37 PM   #25
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I need'ta swing by and see it in person!!!
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